Sorry to start the day OT, but I'm sure you lovely lot will have some tips/experience! ;) We have a HP Server Cabinet (42U 10842 G2), that we've stripped down to the bare-bones chassis. It now measures 750mm wide. We have a door-way that said server cabinet must fit through, measuring up at 620mm. The cabinet chassis is welded at all four corners, so can't be taken apart any more without being cut. Can you see where this is leading yet? Three obvious questions: 1) Have you ever had to fit a cabinet through a doorway that's too small? 2) How did you do it? Cut cabinet, demolish wall ...? 3) If you cut the cabinet, any tips? Thanks. Rob
This may be a silly question but.. How did it get in there? -- Leigh Porter -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lusby [mailto:nanogwp@gmail.com] Sent: Wed 5/4/2011 9:43 AM To: nanog@nanog.org Subject: OT: Server Cabinet Sorry to start the day OT, but I'm sure you lovely lot will have some tips/experience! ;) We have a HP Server Cabinet (42U 10842 G2), that we've stripped down to the bare-bones chassis. It now measures 750mm wide. We have a door-way that said server cabinet must fit through, measuring up at 620mm. The cabinet chassis is welded at all four corners, so can't be taken apart any more without being cut. Can you see where this is leading yet? Three obvious questions: 1) Have you ever had to fit a cabinet through a doorway that's too small? 2) How did you do it? Cut cabinet, demolish wall ...? 3) If you cut the cabinet, any tips? Thanks. Rob ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________
On 04/05/2011 10:53, Leigh Porter wrote:
This may be a silly question but.. How did it get in there?
I'm assuming that it's not yet "in there" :-) I'd probably knock the wall down and fit a more reasonably sized door - 620mm (2') seems a bit narrow for a door anyway. One could of course get a 600mm wide rack instead ... Regards, James
I've removed the doorframe before, and usually replaced with a wider doorframe later. -Bill On May 4, 2011, at 11:07, James Aldridge <jhma@mcvax.org> wrote:
On 04/05/2011 10:53, Leigh Porter wrote:
This may be a silly question but.. How did it get in there?
I'm assuming that it's not yet "in there" :-)
I'd probably knock the wall down and fit a more reasonably sized door - 620mm (2') seems a bit narrow for a door anyway.
One could of course get a 600mm wide rack instead ...
Regards, James
On May 4, 2011, at 5:06 AM, James Aldridge wrote:
On 04/05/2011 10:53, Leigh Porter wrote:
This may be a silly question but.. How did it get in there?
I'm assuming that it's not yet "in there" :-)
I'd probably knock the wall down and fit a more reasonably sized door - 620mm (2') seems a bit narrow for a door anyway.
One could of course get a 600mm wide rack instead ...
I agree. Put the too big rack up on ebay and get a smaller one (or one you can get through the door. This is gotta be cheaper than knocking down, dust abatement and rebuilding a wall. I am not big on cutting the rack unless you know a ME and a really good welder and that may still not be cheaper than sell and buy new. Tom
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On Wed, 4 May 2011 13:59:45 -0400 Barry Shein <bzs@world.std.com> wrote:
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-----Original Message----- From: D'Arcy J.M. Cain [mailto:darcy@druid.net] Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 2:23 PM To: Barry Shein Cc: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Re: Server Cabinet
On Wed, 4 May 2011 13:59:45 -0400 Barry Shein <bzs@world.std.com> wrote:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=142997624312&set=a.1312932843 12.94985.507204312&type=1&theater
"You must log in to see this page."
Please don't post links that require passwords.
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On Wed, May 04, 2011 at 02:26:13PM -0400, Alex Rubenstein said:
Or:
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gated-community internet FAIL /kc
-----Original Message----- From: D'Arcy J.M. Cain [mailto:darcy@druid.net] Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 2:23 PM To: Barry Shein Cc: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Re: Server Cabinet
On Wed, 4 May 2011 13:59:45 -0400 Barry Shein <bzs@world.std.com> wrote:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=142997624312&set=a.1312932843 12.94985.507204312&type=1&theater
"You must log in to see this page."
Please don't post links that require passwords.
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-- Ken Chase - ken@heavycomputing.ca skype:kenchase23 +1 416 897 6284 Toronto Canada Heavy Computing - Clued bandwidth, colocation and managed linux VPS @151 Front St. W.
On Wed, 2011-05-04 at 09:43 +0100, Robert Lusby wrote:
Can you see where this is leading yet?
Is there no other entrance that's wider, perhaps a window/skylight? Cutting-up a cabinet (only to find that it's pretty impossible to make it sturdy again) or demolishing the wall may well be more costly than hiring a fork lift/crane, etc. Just musing.. Tom
Not a silly question my fault for not making clear - cabinet is still outside the room ... yet to go in. And, no other entrance points. Room is below ground level, with a stupidly narrow door frame. Old client building, with a room not originally designed for purpose. Short of scrapping this cabinet, and looking for one where the chassis unbolts also? Rob On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 9:58 AM, Tom Hill <tom@ninjabadger.net> wrote:
On Wed, 2011-05-04 at 09:43 +0100, Robert Lusby wrote:
Can you see where this is leading yet?
Is there no other entrance that's wider, perhaps a window/skylight?
Cutting-up a cabinet (only to find that it's pretty impossible to make it sturdy again) or demolishing the wall may well be more costly than hiring a fork lift/crane, etc.
Just musing..
Tom
In a message written on Wed, May 04, 2011 at 10:09:33AM +0100, Robert Lusby wrote:
And, no other entrance points. Room is below ground level, with a stupidly narrow door frame. Old client building, with a room not originally designed for purpose.
I think folks can help you find a bolt together rack, but I urge you to think one step further. I'm making an assumption that this is a fairly small room, a closet or similar. I do that because even in an old building a room would not likely have a 2' doorway. This raises several questions: Would you be able to get to both sides of the rack and side things all the way out to service them in this space? How are you going to cool the space? Are the power circuits in that room up to powering a full rack of equipment? Will fan and equipment noise annoy adjacent rooms? -- Leo Bicknell - bicknell@ufp.org - CCIE 3440 PGP keys at http://www.ufp.org/~bicknell/
In article <BANLkTin4qhFifiTeFcnZ+EU_02-h=wDf+w@mail.gmail.com>, Robert Lusby <nanogwp@gmail.com> writes
1) Have you ever had to fit a cabinet through a doorway that's too small?
Yes, but it was height not width
2) How did you do it? Cut cabinet, demolish wall ...?
by taking the fan tray off the top and the wheels off the bottom (I realise you've already stripped it down as far as you can go).
3) If you cut the cabinet, any tips?
Also - do you ever want to get the cabinet back out (in one piece)? ps My solution would be to buy a similar sized cabinet (assuming a slimmer one won't do) that needs assembling, and feed the parts through the door, rather than the complete item. -- Roland Perry
Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 09:43:53 +0100 Subject: OT: Server Cabinet From: Robert Lusby <nanogwp@gmail.com>
Sorry to start the day OT, but I'm sure you lovely lot will have some tips/experience! ;)
We have a HP Server Cabinet (42U 10842 G2), that we've stripped down to the bare-bones chassis. It now measures 750mm wide.
We have a door-way that said server cabinet must fit through, measuring up at 620mm.
The cabinet chassis is welded at all four corners, so can't be taken apart any more without being cut.
Can you see where this is leading yet? Three obvious questions:
1) Have you ever had to fit a cabinet through a doorway that's too small? 2) How did you do it? Cut cabinet, demolish wall ...? 3) If you cut the cabinet, any tips?
Comment: you need to recognize that you are 'making trouble'. At _some_ point in the future, there will be a need to remove said cabinet from that location, and the issue will rear it's ugly head *again*. Suggestion: If there is no alternative to that narrow doorway, consider: a) getting a *different* cabinet -- one that _will_ dis-assemble. b) if 'all else fails', _widen_ the doorway. Thus permanently resolving the issue. Option (a) _is_ going to be less time/effort/money than any other alternative.
Can you see where this is leading yet? Three obvious questions:
1) Have you ever had to fit a cabinet through a doorway that's too small? 2) How did you do it? Cut cabinet, demolish wall ...? 3) If you cut the cabinet, any tips?
Comment: you need to recognize that you are 'making trouble'. At _some_ point in the future, there will be a need to remove said cabinet from that location, and the issue will rear it's ugly head *again*.
Suggestion: If there is no alternative to that narrow doorway, consider: a) getting a *different* cabinet -- one that _will_ dis-assemble. b) if 'all else fails', _widen_ the doorway. Thus permanently resolving the issue.
Option (a) _is_ going to be less time/effort/money than any other alternative.
Good comments so far. I didn't see this one though: It's admittedly far from ideal in some ways, but a great way to deal with this sort of situation can be to get a pair of two-post open frame relay racks; most of them bolt together and can be put just about anywhere. Many times we forget that these can be used as the front and back of a single rack. Remember to tie them together if you go that route, attachment to a wall or up top highly recommended as well. Of course, this only works if you didn't really need doors on your rack, etc. ... JG -- Joe Greco - sol.net Network Services - Milwaukee, WI - http://www.sol.net "We call it the 'one bite at the apple' rule. Give me one chance [and] then I won't contact you again." - Direct Marketing Ass'n position on e-mail spam(CNN) With 24 million small businesses in the US alone, that's way too many apples.
It's admittedly far from ideal in some ways, but a great way to deal with this sort of situation can be to get a pair of two-post open frame relay racks; most of them bolt together and can be put just about anywhere. Many times we forget that these can be used as the front and back of a single rack. Remember to tie them together if you go that route, attachment to a wall or up top highly recommended as well.
I've gone this route. Plusses are you can have pretty much any depth you
want. If you can bolt them to the floor they're really stable.
If you have a need for a 4-post rack, do not accomplish that by using 2 2-post racks. You will likely find that rack rails that are designed for a 4-post rack will not fit. Get an open-frame 4-post rack. It will come unassembled. It will also likely be no more costly that 2 2-post racks. -Randy On May 4, 2011, at 8:59, Joe Greco <jgreco@ns.sol.net> wrote:
Can you see where this is leading yet? Three obvious questions:
1) Have you ever had to fit a cabinet through a doorway that's too small? 2) How did you do it? Cut cabinet, demolish wall ...? 3) If you cut the cabinet, any tips?
Comment: you need to recognize that you are 'making trouble'. At _some_ point in the future, there will be a need to remove said cabinet from that location, and the issue will rear it's ugly head *again*.
Suggestion: If there is no alternative to that narrow doorway, consider: a) getting a *different* cabinet -- one that _will_ dis-assemble. b) if 'all else fails', _widen_ the doorway. Thus permanently resolving the issue.
Option (a) _is_ going to be less time/effort/money than any other alternative.
Good comments so far. I didn't see this one though:
It's admittedly far from ideal in some ways, but a great way to deal with this sort of situation can be to get a pair of two-post open frame relay racks; most of them bolt together and can be put just about anywhere. Many times we forget that these can be used as the front and back of a single rack. Remember to tie them together if you go that route, attachment to a wall or up top highly recommended as well.
Of course, this only works if you didn't really need doors on your rack, etc.
... JG -- Joe Greco - sol.net Network Services - Milwaukee, WI - http://www.sol.net "We call it the 'one bite at the apple' rule. Give me one chance [and] then I won't contact you again." - Direct Marketing Ass'n position on e-mail spam(CNN) With 24 million small businesses in the US alone, that's way too many apples.
If you have a need for a 4-post rack, do not accomplish that by using 2 2-po= st racks. You will likely find that rack rails that are designed for a 4-pos= t rack will not fit.
Why? With *any* rack, there are always scenarios where the rack rails for some random item don't end up fitting right. That's certainly not a problem inherent to two 2-post racks. You can find 2-post racks in any number of interesting and unusual post/flange configurations. It's certainly true that picking any old random 2-post rack has certain hazards associated with it - the solution is don't pick "any old random" one, not "don't pick a 2-post rack." But the look-before-buying rule applies to any rack you buy, doesn't it?
Get an open-frame 4-post rack. It will come unassembled.
Most of the open-frame 4-post racks I've seen are actually less sturdy than two 2-post racks; the 2-post racks are generally designed to hold a Lot Of Stuff. In other words, many 4-post racks are not really designed for that much weight. For example, look at the Middle Atlantic Slim 5, which only has a weight capacity of 400 pounds. http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/knock/slim5.htm The RL10-45, on the other hand, has a 1600 lb weight capacity, http://www.middleatlantic.com/dcm/rack/rl.htm so double that for two of them and then reduce it for a safety margin and you have maybe 2000 lb capacity. I can probably *find* four-post units with greater weight capacity, but I suspect that two 2-post racks will tend to have greater capacity just because the design of a 2-post unit is more likely to allow for heavy gear being mounted on it. Now of course we have no idea what's going to be mounted in this, but it's an HP rack so I assume maybe HP servers, which tend towards the heavy. http://h18000.www1.hp.com/products/servers/proliantstorage/racks/10000series... suggests a 2000lb maximum static load requirement.
It will also likely= be no more costly that 2 2-post racks.
Hm. Maybe. Distributor: SLIM 5 KNOCK DOWN 37 SP, 20" DEEP $275.99 MIDDLE ATLANTIC - U.S. Found online: http://salestores.com/apwmay2273.html $90.78 So I'm a little skeptical about that too. ... JG -- Joe Greco - sol.net Network Services - Milwaukee, WI - http://www.sol.net "We call it the 'one bite at the apple' rule. Give me one chance [and] then I won't contact you again." - Direct Marketing Ass'n position on e-mail spam(CNN) With 24 million small businesses in the US alone, that's way too many apples.
Once upon a time, Joe Greco <jgreco@ns.sol.net> said:
Now of course we have no idea what's going to be mounted in this, but it's an HP rack so I assume maybe HP servers, which tend towards the heavy.
One thing about using a 2-post rack for servers that can be a problem is that most 2-post racks I've seen have tapped holes, ready for screws, and some server rails (such as Dell) pretty much require square hole or round hole racks instead. You can get third-party server rails that will work with a tapped hole rack, but that's an extra expense (and irritation). -- Chris Adams <cmadams@hiwaay.net> Systems and Network Administrator - HiWAAY Internet Services I don't speak for anybody but myself - that's enough trouble.
Once upon a time, Joe Greco <jgreco@ns.sol.net> said:
Now of course we have no idea what's going to be mounted in this, but it's an HP rack so I assume maybe HP servers, which tend towards the heavy.
One thing about using a 2-post rack for servers that can be a problem is that most 2-post racks I've seen have tapped holes, ready for screws, and some server rails (such as Dell) pretty much require square hole or round hole racks instead. You can get third-party server rails that will work with a tapped hole rack, but that's an extra expense (and irritation).
That's a good point. Without knowing the intended equipment load, it is difficult to give good advice on this part. However, since it's an HP rack, an obvious guess might be HP servers, and I will note that the HP rails I've seen, while designed for square or round hole racks, do allow the little peglets to be removed, and are then compatible with most racks I've seen. Unfortunately they have a thread-lock compound on them, so be prepared to sit down with a flat blade power screwdriver and some pliers; removal is about 2 minutes per set of rails that way. I've come to like the HP server gear a whole lot more than Dell over the years. Little things like that are one of the reasons. ... JG -- Joe Greco - sol.net Network Services - Milwaukee, WI - http://www.sol.net "We call it the 'one bite at the apple' rule. Give me one chance [and] then I won't contact you again." - Direct Marketing Ass'n position on e-mail spam(CNN) With 24 million small businesses in the US alone, that's way too many apples.
On Wed, 4 May 2011, Joe Greco wrote:
If you have a need for a 4-post rack, do not accomplish that by using 2 2-po= st racks. You will likely find that rack rails that are designed for a 4-pos= t rack will not fit.
Possibly, though you can usually order "universal" rails to fit tapped-hole racks. It's a hassle, and usually an unaccounted expense. And IME these rails aren't nearly as nice on your hands and sanity as the snap-in rails most server mfrs ship standard.
Get an open-frame 4-post rack. It will come unassembled.
I'd suggest getting an actual cabinet that you can order unassembled. I'm thinking specifically of the excellent CPI Megaframe cabinets. The only parts that don't knock down are the bases, tops, doors and sides - and you can carry those easily through the door. The uprights and braces are extruded aluminum, and then your actual mounting rails (in square hole, round punched, tapped threads, or any combination) are steel, bolted inside of those. When we closed one datacenter and found we had to scrap 40 of these things (!!!) I took apart four and they all fit inside my normal-sized car. They were very easy to then carry down the winding narrow staircase to my basement. ;) If you're very tight on space inside the room, you can get different door options, or just omit them entirely. This changes your thermal and acoustical management, but I'm guessing you already have some challenges there, if your door is any indication. These CPI cabinets are not cheap, but they are very nice, can be carried through tight/low doorways in lightweight sections, and have considerable load ratings. 2000 pounds I think. All that said, I have removed and disassembled door frames, ceilings, walls, whatever to deal with whatever issues where we couldn't take racks apart or otherwise spend our way through it. This doesn't work so well when you have concrete walls, welded doorframes, or unforgiving landlords. ;) -- Jameel Akari
----- Original Message -----
If you have a need for a 4-post rack, do not accomplish that by using 2 2-po= st racks. You will likely find that rack rails that are designed for a 4-pos= t rack will not fit.
Why? With *any* rack, there are always scenarios where the rack rails for some random item don't end up fitting right. That's certainly not a problem inherent to two 2-post racks. You can find 2-post racks in any number of interesting and unusual post/flange configurations. It's certainly true that picking any old random 2-post rack has certain hazards associated with it - the solution is don't pick "any old random" one, not "don't pick a 2-post rack." But the look-before-buying rule applies to any rack you buy, doesn't it?
The major issue is that 2-post rack rails are generally U-shaped, and have tapped holes. Server rack rails are L-shaped and generally have square holes. The vast majority of mounting rails I have seen in server equipment, in the last few years especially, will not fit because of the extra inside rails. Been there, done that, had to buy a real 4-post rack. Is it really a big deal to spend $500 for the proper rack? I do agree that some 4-post racks tend to be flimsier than the 2-post racks, but when properly assembled, any decent brand should work fine. Just make sure to double check the weight capacities. -Randy
If you have a need for a 4-post rack, do not accomplish that by using 2 2-po= st racks. You will likely find that rack rails that are designed for a 4-pos= t rack will not fit.
Why? With *any* rack, there are always scenarios where the rack rails for some random item don't end up fitting right. That's certainly not a problem inherent to two 2-post racks. You can find 2-post racks in any number of interesting and unusual post/flange configurations. It's certainly true that picking any old random 2-post rack has certain hazards associated with it - the solution is don't pick "any old random" one, not "don't pick a 2-post rack." But the look-before-buying rule applies to any rack you buy, doesn't it?
The major issue is that 2-post rack rails are generally U-shaped, and have tapped holes.
Which some of us prefer, unless we're mounting lots of servers or something like that. When you're working with various odd bits of networking gear, square holes just mean you get to do lots of cage nuts until your eyes go crossed and you finally realize when putting in that eighth screw on a big bit of equipment that you misaligned the last cage nut. And you know it's always the last one, and you can't slide it because it's too tight.
Server rack rails are L-shaped and generally have square holes.
Many are, yes.
The vast majority of mounting rails I have seen in server equipment, in the last few years especially, will not fit because of the extra inside rails. Been there, done that, had to buy a real 4-post rack.
I guess that could be. My own experience in the last few years is that it hasn't been a problem. An old Cisco AccessPath rack I use here in the shop for testing took several HP DLnnn servers with the HP rails no problem; it's a tapped-hole beast but the HP rails just needed the pegs removed and they worked fine, no worries about any hangouts on the sides or anything else that I can recall.
Is it really a big deal to spend $500 for the proper rack?
I believe we were making suggestions as to what the "proper rack" might be, and that we haven't really heard any guidance as to what the rack will be used for, so this is all speculation. Myself, I kind of took a wild stab at "HP servers" because normally one doesn't buy an HP rack for Dell servers. Of course, there are almost certainly HP servers with rails that won't work well in a pair of relay racks. I also didn't bother to duplicate suggestions that others had already made; my listing of a single suggestion wasn't meant to imply that mine was the best recommendation or anything like that. Speaking as someone who's had POP's in very small closet-like rooms, I feel compelled to note that tales of various options, including the good and the bad, would have been welcome many years ago. Alas, NANOG didn't exist back then. As it stands, I don't think that one can reach a conclusion as to what the "proper rack" for this guy is, but I can say that from my own experience, folks have provided a very comprehensive set of options and a wealth of practical experience that ought to move things in the right direction. It's been enjoyable to read, too... you realize that many others have had some of those same cursing, swearing bad days out on the floor. ... JG -- Joe Greco - sol.net Network Services - Milwaukee, WI - http://www.sol.net "We call it the 'one bite at the apple' rule. Give me one chance [and] then I won't contact you again." - Direct Marketing Ass'n position on e-mail spam(CNN) With 24 million small businesses in the US alone, that's way too many apples.
On Thu, May 5, 2011 at 2:50 PM, Joe Greco <jgreco@ns.sol.net> wrote:
I guess that could be. My own experience in the last few years is that it hasn't been a problem. An old Cisco AccessPath rack I use here in the shop for testing took several HP DLnnn servers with the HP rails no problem; it's a tapped-hole beast but the HP rails just needed the pegs removed and they worked fine, no worries about any hangouts on the sides or anything else that I can recall.
Dell is the main offender here. HP mostly figured this one out five years ago though some of their rebranded equipment still suffers. Regards, Bill Herrin -- William D. Herrin ................ herrin@dirtside.com bill@herrin.us 3005 Crane Dr. ...................... Web: <http://bill.herrin.us/> Falls Church, VA 22042-3004
On Wed, 4 May 2011, Joe Greco wrote:
Good comments so far. I didn't see this one though:
It's admittedly far from ideal in some ways, but a great way to deal with this sort of situation can be to get a pair of two-post open frame relay racks; most of them bolt together and can be put just about anywhere. Many times we forget that these can be used as the front and back of a single rack. Remember to tie them together if you go that route, attachment to a wall or up top highly recommended as well.
I was about to suggest that. Chatsworth actually makes hardware just for this. http://www.chatsworth.com/uploadedFiles/Files/50110_CUT.pdf We have a number of these which we've used to convert left over 2-post relay racks into sturdy 4-post racks. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Jon Lewis, MCP :) | I route Senior Network Engineer | therefore you are Atlantic Net | _________ http://www.lewis.org/~jlewis/pgp for PGP public key_________
On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 4:43 AM, Robert Lusby <nanogwp@gmail.com> wrote:
We have a HP Server Cabinet (42U 10842 G2), that we've stripped down to the bare-bones chassis. It now measures 750mm wide.
We have a door-way that said server cabinet must fit through, measuring up at 620mm.
Hi Rob, My first reaction on hearing that you have a two-foot doorway to move this cabinet through is: what else is wrong with the room that makes it entirely unsuitable for hosting a server cabinet? There's adequate power behind a home bathroom-size doorway? Adequate cooling? Adequate clearance around the cabinet once past the doorway? An HP 10642 cabinet is 597mm wide. Ditch the extra-wide cabinet and use 1U power strips instead of the so-called zero-U jobbies. A 10636 cabinet is shorter too, making it easier to fit in small spaces. -Bill -- William D. Herrin ................ herrin@dirtside.com bill@herrin.us 3005 Crane Dr. ...................... Web: <http://bill.herrin.us/> Falls Church, VA 22042-3004
Do you have any kids ? If yes ask them to do it, leave and come back a few hours later
On 5/4/2011 10:07 AM, Chaim Rieger wrote:
Do you have any kids ? If yes ask them to do it, leave and come back a few hours later
At last, a helpful answer! Seriously, disregarding all the helpful comments from everyone questioning your judgment in trying to move a large cabinet through a small door... * cut the cabinet into smaller pieces, move through door, re-assemble via your preferred method, be it welder, chewing gum or duct tape * make the door bigger, which would mean that if you decide at some point you want to move the cabinet again, you won't have this issue * bend the very fabric of space and time itself to place the cabinet inside the room without going through the door I'd pick the second one, but if you go with the third let me know so I can watch. Jason
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chaim Rieger" <chaim.rieger@gmail.com>
Do you have any kids ? If yes ask them to do it, leave and come back a few hours later
And the Webby for Best Short Answer to a NANOG Question goes ... to. What's your 5 word acceptance speech, Chaim? Cheers, -- jra
On 4 May 2011 04:43, Robert Lusby <nanogwp@gmail.com> wrote:
Sorry to start the day OT, but I'm sure you lovely lot will have some tips/experience! ;)
We have a HP Server Cabinet (42U 10842 G2), that we've stripped down to the bare-bones chassis. It now measures 750mm wide.
We have a door-way that said server cabinet must fit through, measuring up at 620mm.
The cabinet chassis is welded at all four corners, so can't be taken apart any more without being cut.
Can you see where this is leading yet? Three obvious questions:
1) Have you ever had to fit a cabinet through a doorway that's too small? 2) How did you do it? Cut cabinet, demolish wall ...? 3) If you cut the cabinet, any tips?
Thanks. Rob
I've seen some suggestions for Middle Atlantic racks, avoid these, as they are junk (and rather expensive). APC builds some cabinets that will knock down, as does Commscope. I bet Chatsworth has something as well.
We have a door-way that said server cabinet must fit through, measuring up at 620mm.
A 24" door? .. dang, that's tiny. Did someone mix up OD and ID when considering what a 19" rack meant?
1) Have you ever had to fit a cabinet through a doorway that's too small?
Yes. I will say up front that it's cheaper and easier to just buy one that fits (a knockdown, etc.) .. unless you're doing it yourself and don't assign value to your time, consider you'll be removing at least 1 stud, floor-to-ceiling, and any associated wiring that runs through it, along with the drywall on both sides. Refitting that, taping, sanding, painting, etc. If this is a commercial building and you're obligated to use tradesman, you've got at least 2 (carpentry and electrical), plus maybe a building permit, etc.
2) How did you do it? Cut cabinet, demolish wall ...?
The cabinet will be easier than the wall, but the wall will need less specialized tools (drywall work is easier than welding).
3) If you cut the cabinet, any tips?
Anything that will produce a weldable edge will do (sawzall, etc.) but consider that you will then have to grind the paint and fire up a mig welder (EMI issues) in your data closet, then grind (and paint) the results if you want it to look pretty. All I'll say about that is you'd better be darn sure everything is grounded. Also .. wear a respirator. Cutting/grinding the welds at the opposed corners top/bottom (to produce two triangular pieces that can swivel around and in) will be the easiest to weld back together (using a new triangular piece of steel as a brace if needed). If you don't know how to weld (and own a welder), or finish drywall (also harder than it looks) the costs associated with hiring out either of your two choices will easily equal just buying one that'd fit. Also, as someone else mentioned .. what happens next time it needs to move? Regards, Michael Holstein Cleveland State University
On Thu, May 5, 2011 at 11:03 AM, Michael Holstein <michael.holstein@csuohio.edu> wrote:
We have a door-way that said server cabinet must fit through, measuring up at 620mm.
A 24" door? .. dang, that's tiny. Did someone mix up OD and ID when considering what a 19" rack meant?
1) Have you ever had to fit a cabinet through a doorway that's too small?
Yes. I will say up front that it's cheaper and easier to just buy one that fits (a knockdown, etc.) .. unless you're doing it yourself and don't assign value to your time, consider you'll be removing at least 1 stud, floor-to-ceiling, and any associated wiring that runs through it, along with the drywall on both sides. Refitting that, taping, sanding, painting, etc. If this is a commercial building and you're obligated to use tradesman, you've got at least 2 (carpentry and electrical), plus maybe a building permit, etc.
2) How did you do it? Cut cabinet, demolish wall ...?
The cabinet will be easier than the wall, but the wall will need less specialized tools (drywall work is easier than welding).
3) If you cut the cabinet, any tips?
Anything that will produce a weldable edge will do (sawzall, etc.) but consider that you will then have to grind the paint and fire up a mig welder (EMI issues) in your data closet, then grind (and paint) the results if you want it to look pretty. All I'll say about that is you'd better be darn sure everything is grounded. Also .. wear a respirator.
Cutting/grinding the welds at the opposed corners top/bottom (to produce two triangular pieces that can swivel around and in) will be the easiest to weld back together (using a new triangular piece of steel as a brace if needed).
If you don't know how to weld (and own a welder), or finish drywall (also harder than it looks) the costs associated with hiring out either of your two choices will easily equal just buying one that'd fit.
Also, as someone else mentioned .. what happens next time it needs to move?
I own stick and MIG welders; I would not recommend this route for a new welder. The racks tend to be thin enough material that getting welds right is tough for new welders. Also - if you have proper fire suppression in the room, it's likely to have a fit at the welding fumes. 12 years ago while I was partially under the raised floor at Frontier Globalcenter in Sunnyvale, a Liebert repair guy welding up a frame crack in a air unit set off the stage 1 fire alarm for the second floor room, and it nearly got to the stage-2-discharge-all-the-FM200 point (I was far out of the room by that point, but the FGC facilities guy said it was low single digit seconds remaining in the countdown when he disarmed). I recommend another room, or the knockdown rack models and sell this one on eBay... -- -george william herbert george.herbert@gmail.com
participants (26)
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Alex Rubenstein
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Barry Shein
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Bill Woodcock
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Chaim Rieger
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Chris Adams
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D'Arcy J.M. Cain
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Dorn Hetzel
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George Herbert
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Jameel Akari
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James Aldridge
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Jason Baugher
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Jay Ashworth
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Jeremy Parr
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Joe Greco
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Jon Lewis
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Ken Chase
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Leigh Porter
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Leo Bicknell
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Michael Holstein
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Randy Carpenter
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Robert Bonomi
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Robert Lusby
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Roland Perry
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Tom Hill
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TR Shaw
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William Herrin