Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab has broken off? Tried checking online but couldn’t find anything. Thank you, -- Ryland
Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work the latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this case. You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can work the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a credit card to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no deadlatch. :) You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick between the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and plug. -joe From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=mischoice.com@nanog.org> On Behalf Of Ryland Kremeier Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31 To: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal? External Mail Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab has broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything. Thank you, -- Ryland
Joe’s response is spot on. I would also suggest you look at the “latching finger” mechanism on a spare, then apply some of the techniques Joe suggests. Eric Luma optics Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Joe Klein <joe.klein@mischoice.com> wrote:
Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work the latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this case.
You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can work the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a credit card to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no deadlatch. :)
You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick between the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and plug.
-joe
From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=mischoice.com@nanog.org> On Behalf Of Ryland Kremeier Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31 To: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
External Mail
Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab has broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything.
Thank you, -- Ryland
Hit the wrong reply button before, but we were able to get it removed by unscrewing the top latch and removing that first at an angle. Then the connector was able to be pulled straight out. Plastic was very thin on the pull tab and it snapped without much resistance. Thank you, -- Ryland From: Eric Litvin<mailto:eric@lumaoptics.net> Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 10:49 AM To: Joe Klein<mailto:joe.klein@mischoice.com> Cc: nanog@nanog.org<mailto:nanog@nanog.org> Subject: Re: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal? Joe’s response is spot on. I would also suggest you look at the “latching finger” mechanism on a spare, then apply some of the techniques Joe suggests. Eric Luma optics Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Joe Klein <joe.klein@mischoice.com> wrote:
Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work the latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this case.
You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can work the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a credit card to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no deadlatch. :)
You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick between the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and plug.
-joe
From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=mischoice.com@nanog.org> On Behalf Of Ryland Kremeier Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31 To: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
External Mail
Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab has broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything.
Thank you, -- Ryland
Hi, That happened to me more often with the DAC cables I had the displeasure to deal with. And yeah got old valve gap feeler gauge to the rescue =D ----- Alain Hebert ahebert@pubnix.net PubNIX Inc. 50 boul. St-Charles P.O. Box 26770 Beaconsfield, Quebec H9W 6G7 Tel: 514-990-5911 http://www.pubnix.net Fax: 514-990-9443 On 4/23/21 11:51 AM, Ryland Kremeier wrote:
Hit the wrong reply button before, but we were able to get it removed by unscrewing the top latch and removing that first at an angle. Then the connector was able to be pulled straight out. Plastic was very thin on the pull tab and it snapped without much resistance.
Thank you,
-- Ryland
*From: *Eric Litvin <mailto:eric@lumaoptics.net> *Sent: *Friday, April 23, 2021 10:49 AM *To: *Joe Klein <mailto:joe.klein@mischoice.com> *Cc: *nanog@nanog.org <mailto:nanog@nanog.org> *Subject: *Re: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
Joe’s response is spot on. I would also suggest you look at the “latching finger” mechanism on a spare, then apply some of the techniques Joe suggests.
Eric Luma optics
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Joe Klein <joe.klein@mischoice.com> wrote:
Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work the latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this case.
You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can work the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a credit card to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no deadlatch. :)
You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick between the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and plug.
-joe
From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=mischoice.com@nanog.org> On Behalf Of Ryland Kremeier Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31 To: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
External Mail
Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab has broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything.
Thank you, -- Ryland
One of the best DACs I've ever had - and I wish I could find them or the manufacturer again - was one with a relatively thick metal T push bar that you had to push in towards the switch to release the latch. Almost impossible to break, and nearly as impossible to accidentally get unplugged. On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 12:20 PM Alain Hebert <ahebert@pubnix.net> wrote:
Hi,
That happened to me more often with the DAC cables I had the displeasure to deal with.
And yeah got old valve gap feeler gauge to the rescue =D
----- Alain Hebert ahebert@pubnix.net PubNIX Inc. 50 boul. St-Charles P.O. Box 26770 Beaconsfield, Quebec H9W 6G7 Tel: 514-990-5911 http://www.pubnix.net Fax: 514-990-9443
On 4/23/21 11:51 AM, Ryland Kremeier wrote:
Hit the wrong reply button before, but we were able to get it removed by unscrewing the top latch and removing that first at an angle. Then the connector was able to be pulled straight out. Plastic was very thin on the pull tab and it snapped without much resistance.
Thank you,
-- Ryland
From: Eric Litvin Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 10:49 AM To: Joe Klein Cc: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Re: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
Joe’s response is spot on. I would also suggest you look at the “latching finger” mechanism on a spare, then apply some of the techniques Joe suggests.
Eric Luma optics
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Joe Klein <joe.klein@mischoice.com> wrote:
Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work the latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this case.
You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can work the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a credit card to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no deadlatch. :)
You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick between the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and plug.
-joe
From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=mischoice.com@nanog.org> On Behalf Of Ryland Kremeier Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31 To: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
External Mail
Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab has broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything.
Thank you, -- Ryland
Yeah, being fairly new to SAS connectors in general, it surprises me that they’re not better engineered to prevent something like this from happening. Seems like it could be a fairly common issue from how easily this one snapped. Thank you, -- Ryland From: George Metz<mailto:george.metz@gmail.com> Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 11:49 AM To: North American Network Operators' Group<mailto:nanog@nanog.org> Subject: Re: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal? One of the best DACs I've ever had - and I wish I could find them or the manufacturer again - was one with a relatively thick metal T push bar that you had to push in towards the switch to release the latch. Almost impossible to break, and nearly as impossible to accidentally get unplugged. On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 12:20 PM Alain Hebert <ahebert@pubnix.net> wrote:
Hi,
That happened to me more often with the DAC cables I had the displeasure to deal with.
And yeah got old valve gap feeler gauge to the rescue =D
----- Alain Hebert ahebert@pubnix.net PubNIX Inc. 50 boul. St-Charles P.O. Box 26770 Beaconsfield, Quebec H9W 6G7 Tel: 514-990-5911 http://www.pubnix.net Fax: 514-990-9443
On 4/23/21 11:51 AM, Ryland Kremeier wrote:
Hit the wrong reply button before, but we were able to get it removed by unscrewing the top latch and removing that first at an angle. Then the connector was able to be pulled straight out. Plastic was very thin on the pull tab and it snapped without much resistance.
Thank you,
-- Ryland
From: Eric Litvin Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 10:49 AM To: Joe Klein Cc: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Re: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
Joe’s response is spot on. I would also suggest you look at the “latching finger” mechanism on a spare, then apply some of the techniques Joe suggests.
Eric Luma optics
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Joe Klein <joe.klein@mischoice.com> wrote:
Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work the latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this case.
You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can work the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a credit card to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no deadlatch. :)
You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick between the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and plug.
-joe
From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=mischoice.com@nanog.org> On Behalf Of Ryland Kremeier Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31 To: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
External Mail
Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab has broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything.
Thank you, -- Ryland
The DACs with the metal release are definitely considerably more robust. They are, however, sometimes more difficult to unlatch to remove, particularly in scenarios with tightly-spaced ports. thanks, -Randy ----- On Apr 23, 2021, at 12:45 PM, George Metz george.metz@gmail.com wrote:
One of the best DACs I've ever had - and I wish I could find them or the manufacturer again - was one with a relatively thick metal T push bar that you had to push in towards the switch to release the latch. Almost impossible to break, and nearly as impossible to accidentally get unplugged.
On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 12:20 PM Alain Hebert <ahebert@pubnix.net> wrote:
Hi,
That happened to me more often with the DAC cables I had the displeasure to deal with.
And yeah got old valve gap feeler gauge to the rescue =D
----- Alain Hebert ahebert@pubnix.net PubNIX Inc. 50 boul. St-Charles P.O. Box 26770 Beaconsfield, Quebec H9W 6G7 Tel: 514-990-5911 http://www.pubnix.net Fax: 514-990-9443
On 4/23/21 11:51 AM, Ryland Kremeier wrote:
Hit the wrong reply button before, but we were able to get it removed by unscrewing the top latch and removing that first at an angle. Then the connector was able to be pulled straight out. Plastic was very thin on the pull tab and it snapped without much resistance.
Thank you,
-- Ryland
From: Eric Litvin Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 10:49 AM To: Joe Klein Cc: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Re: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
Joe’s response is spot on. I would also suggest you look at the “latching finger” mechanism on a spare, then apply some of the techniques Joe suggests.
Eric Luma optics
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Joe Klein <joe.klein@mischoice.com> wrote:
Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work the latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this case.
You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can work the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a credit card to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no deadlatch. :)
You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick between the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and plug.
-joe
From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=mischoice.com@nanog.org> On Behalf Of Ryland Kremeier Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31 To: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
External Mail
Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab has broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything.
Thank you, -- Ryland
A related question -- every now and then I run into SFPs where the bail / level has decided to come off, and now I've got a jammed SFP+ inna slot. I've often managed to wiggle the bail back in and use it to release the SFP, or used the tip of a small screwdriver to push down the release, but this doesn't always work... I've ended up with a few line cards/devices with some ports unusable because of this.... The best tool I ever found for this is a Peterson 0.015 stainless steel hook pick (https://www.thinkpeterson.com/hook-5-stainless-0-015-slender/), or slender reach pick, but, well TSA/customs people get all twitchy when traveling with lockpicks (which is a separate issue, but let's not get into the politics here) Does anyone know of a purpose built tool for this? Something that won't get me on the additional screenings lists? On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 1:36 PM Randy Carpenter <rcarpen@network1.net> wrote:
The DACs with the metal release are definitely considerably more robust. They are, however, sometimes more difficult to unlatch to remove, particularly in scenarios with tightly-spaced ports.
thanks, -Randy
----- On Apr 23, 2021, at 12:45 PM, George Metz george.metz@gmail.com wrote:
One of the best DACs I've ever had - and I wish I could find them or the manufacturer again - was one with a relatively thick metal T push bar that you had to push in towards the switch to release the latch. Almost impossible to break, and nearly as impossible to accidentally get unplugged.
On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 12:20 PM Alain Hebert <ahebert@pubnix.net> wrote:
Hi,
That happened to me more often with the DAC cables I had the
displeasure to deal
with.
And yeah got old valve gap feeler gauge to the rescue =D
----- Alain Hebert ahebert@pubnix.net PubNIX Inc. 50 boul. St-Charles P.O. Box 26770 Beaconsfield, Quebec H9W 6G7 Tel: 514-990-5911 http://www.pubnix.net Fax: 514-990-9443
On 4/23/21 11:51 AM, Ryland Kremeier wrote:
Hit the wrong reply button before, but we were able to get it removed by unscrewing the top latch and removing that first at an angle. Then the connector was able to be pulled straight out. Plastic was very thin on
tab and it snapped without much resistance.
Thank you,
-- Ryland
From: Eric Litvin Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 10:49 AM To: Joe Klein Cc: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Re: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
Joe’s response is spot on. I would also suggest you look at the “latching finger” mechanism on a spare, then apply some of the techniques Joe suggests.
Eric Luma optics
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Joe Klein <joe.klein@mischoice.com> wrote:
Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work
latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this case.
You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can work the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a credit card to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no deadlatch. :)
You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick between the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and
-joe
From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=mischoice.com@nanog.org> On
Behalf Of
Ryland Kremeier Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31 To: nanog@nanog.org Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
External Mail
Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the
the pull the plug. plastic tab has
broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything.
Thank you, -- Ryland
-- The computing scientist’s main challenge is not to get confused by the complexities of his own making. -- E. W. Dijkstra
On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 10:49 AM Warren Kumari <warren@kumari.net> wrote:
Does anyone know of a purpose built tool for this? Something that won't get me on the additional screenings lists?
It's not purpose-built, but you may find a traveller hook / Shrum tool useful. Carolina Roller is one manufacturer. Ironically, this tool has been adopted by the locksport community, but is intended for use in textile manufacturing.
participants (8)
-
Alain Hebert -
Eric Litvin -
George Metz -
Joe Klein -
nick hatch -
Randy Carpenter -
Ryland Kremeier -
Warren Kumari