A related question -- every now and then I run into SFPs where the bail / level has decided to come off, and now I've got a jammed SFP+ inna slot. I've often managed to wiggle the bail back in and use it to release the SFP, or used the tip of a small screwdriver to push down the release, but this doesn't always work... I've ended up with a few line cards/devices with some ports unusable because of this....

The best tool I ever found for this is a Peterson 0.015 stainless steel hook pick (https://www.thinkpeterson.com/hook-5-stainless-0-015-slender/), or slender reach pick, but, well TSA/customs people get all twitchy when traveling with lockpicks (which is a separate issue, but let's not get into the politics here)

Does anyone know of a purpose built tool for this? Something that won't get me on the additional screenings lists?

On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 1:36 PM Randy Carpenter <rcarpen@network1.net> wrote:

The DACs with the metal release are definitely considerably more robust. They are, however, sometimes more difficult to unlatch to remove, particularly in scenarios with tightly-spaced ports.

thanks,
-Randy

----- On Apr 23, 2021, at 12:45 PM, George Metz george.metz@gmail.com wrote:

> One of the best DACs I've ever had - and I wish I could find them or
> the manufacturer again - was one with a relatively thick metal T push
> bar that you had to push in towards the switch to release the latch.
> Almost impossible to break, and nearly as impossible to accidentally
> get unplugged.
>
> On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 12:20 PM Alain Hebert <ahebert@pubnix.net> wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> That happened to me more often with the DAC cables I had the displeasure to deal
>> with.
>>
>> And yeah got old valve gap feeler gauge to the rescue =D
>>
>> -----
>> Alain Hebert ahebert@pubnix.net
>> PubNIX Inc.
>> 50 boul. St-Charles
>> P.O. Box 26770 Beaconsfield, Quebec H9W 6G7
>> Tel: 514-990-5911 http://www.pubnix.net Fax: 514-990-9443
>>
>> On 4/23/21 11:51 AM, Ryland Kremeier wrote:
>>
>> Hit the wrong reply button before, but we were able to get it removed by
>> unscrewing the top latch and removing that first at an angle. Then the
>> connector was able to be pulled straight out. Plastic was very thin on the pull
>> tab and it snapped without much resistance.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> -- Ryland
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Eric Litvin
>> Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 10:49 AM
>> To: Joe Klein
>> Cc: nanog@nanog.org
>> Subject: Re: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe’s response is spot on. I would also suggest you look at the “latching
>> finger” mechanism on a spare, then apply some of the techniques Joe suggests.
>>
>> Eric
>> Luma optics
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Apr 23, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Joe Klein <joe.klein@mischoice.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work the
>> > latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this
>> > case.
>> >
>> > You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can work
>> > the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a credit card
>> > to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no deadlatch. :)
>> >
>> > You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick between
>> > the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and plug.
>> >
>> > -joe
>> >
>> > From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=mischoice.com@nanog.org> On Behalf Of
>> > Ryland Kremeier
>> > Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31
>> > To: nanog@nanog.org
>> > Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?
>> >
>> >
>> > External Mail
>> >
>> > Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab has
>> > broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything.
>> >
>> > Thank you,
>> > -- Ryland
>> >
>>
>>
>>