Restaurants worth visiting: the Waterfront Kitchen (pricey, worth it, harbor views), The Helmand (Afghan, delicious, charming hosts), McCormick & Schmick's (seafood, harbor views), The Black Olive (Greek), B&O Brasserie (great cocktails too), Sotto Sopra (Italian), Da Mimmo's (Italian) Restaurants with good beer: The Brewer's Art (home of Resurrection Ale), The Alewife (one dining room is a former bank vault), Heavy Seas Ale House (extraaaaarrrrdinary beers, matey) What you should try: crabs (steamed, soft-shell, crabcakes or any other way you can get them) seasoned (of course) with Old Bay Places to go in your copious free time: American Visionary Art Museum, the National Aquarium, Fort McHenry The Charm City Circulator is a free bus service that runs on various routes downtown. Water taxis (not free) run across the harbor. Do not be confused if someone says "Welcome to Bawlmer Merlund, hon": you're in the correct city. Fells Point, Canton, the Inner Harbor and Federal Hill are all reasonably safe. Travel in groups at night and/or take a cab if it's late. Stay the hell away from North Avenue unless you want to be an extra in The Wire. Berger Cookies are really bad for your diet and you definitely want some. Don't fall into the harbor, the water quality is...dubious. ---rsk